Day 1: Infiltrating the Gush

August 5, 2005

After passing through the initial checkpoints leading to the Kissufim Crossing under the pretense that I was a "stupid American" who didn't know Hebrew or current affairs, I smuggled into my friend's car with a fake ID. The male driver told the patroller at Kissufim to cut him a break, and they didn't check me as I pretended to be asleep in the back seat. Entering the Gush Neve Dekalim was just as I left it a month before, during my Shabbat visit. There was no sign of impending doom or disaster -- the trees, the buildings, the roads, were all as they were -- people were walk

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The End of Sanity

June 28, 2005

The orange ribbon was tied neatly around my rearview mirror. Through the mirror I saw the face of an acquaintance in the backseat. I was giving her a ride from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem. When she noticed the color of my political views above the dashboard, she offered her own: "We can't live in the midst of our enemy. Disengagement is the only sane thing to do." "I disagree," I said simply, avoiding a political debate I wasn't ready to win fully. I knew I would find out some more truth for myself, that weekend, on my planned trip to Gush Katif. I had to go to the Gush before it was too late. I

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A Traveler’s Guide to Tel Aviv Nightlife

May 30, 2005

Jewish Journal, May 19, 2005 If the Cinderella story had been set in Tel Aviv, her raggedy slipper would have turned into a magical glass pump at the witching hour, instead of the other way around. New York may be the city that never sleeps, but life in Tel Aviv begins at midnight. There are dozens of nightclubs and about 200 bars in this mini-metropolis, each with its own flavor and theme. Yet they all share a determination and dedication to having a good time. Think of this list of diverse venues as a starting point to explore Tel Aviv’s nightlife, since wh

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